Category: Build Progress

  • Templates Created and Larch Planks Starts Going up on Walls

    At last, we can actually see the Larch cladding timber going up on our walls this week! But first, we made a couple of templates; a lap joint cutting guide to produce a 50mm wide half lap joint for two pieces running on the same row, so we could screw both “ends” of the two planks into the single upright batten.

    Templates Created and Larch Planks Starts Going up on Walls

    Lap-joint-jig


    It uses our two battery powered circular saws; one to rip across the end at 50mm deep cut and just shy of half way through the thickness (10mm out of the overall 20mm thickness) and the other saw to cut across the face at 10mm deep to complete the removal of the piece. Then we flip around the second plank (end over end; rather than edge over edge) and repeat the process using the same template. This produced two mirror image cut away ends that merges together almost seamlessly.
    Templates Created and Larch Planks Starts Going up on Walls

    Cutting-accross-the-end-

    Templates Created and Larch Planks Starts Going up on Walls

    Cutting-across-the-face

    Templates Created and Larch Planks Starts Going up on Walls

    Makes-two-half-laps

    Templates Created and Larch Planks Starts Going up on Walls

    Which-come-together-neatly



    The second template tool were three metal plates with guidance holes drilled into them. There are three versions; one for each plank width. These helpful guides will keep our placements for the mushroom headed stainless steel screws at a regular and consistent location when fixing all the cladding planks up on the walls and their battens.
    Templates Created and Larch Planks Starts Going up on Walls

    Fixing-hole-drilling-jig


    Skipping pass some external interruptions we had this week, we went to the far back left corner of the house, to the Great Room wall section, P1, to start there. The wall is 4800mm long with a large window in it so we can learn how to proceed, setup working platforms (two trestle tables joined together using two CLS 63mm planks and covered in plywood left-over pieces) and carefully see how we put up each plank in turn. The spacing between each row of cladding is achieved using a 9mm thick plywood for the bottom row against the slate ribbon and a 6mm piece of MDF to separate each row going up the wall.
    Templates Created and Larch Planks Starts Going up on Walls

    Cutting-bench


    We decided to start at the bottom of each wall, with the widest Larch timber (burnt to a level 3) and then followed by the 2nd row of a medium plank (with a burn level of 4 – darker) and then finally the darkest (burn level 5) plank using a narrowest plank to meet up with the window sill. We arranged it so that the joint between this row and the fourth row is just hidden by the Oak sill itself so we had to remove s small area (the upward slope) of the Larch timber and it all fitted very well.

    Then we got our spreadsheet and randomised the order of the 12 planks that go between the bottom and top of the windows, to mix up the three different widths, to make it more interesting and more variations around the house. We decided that we would mark on the batten on either side of the window, the exact placement of each row so we can be reasonably assured that our last plank will align to the top of the window in a consistent manner. This in fact exactly what happened and we now have both sides of the window populated with planks spaced apart by an average of 11.5mm over 15 planks.
    As we got higher and higher, we realised that we needed a better means of working and reaching up that high so we took one of our three large platforms and chopped the legs down so it provided enough height to enable us to reach up inside the eves.
    Templates Created and Larch Planks Starts Going up on Walls

    Lowered-working-platform


    We finished off the main area above the window and stopped just short of the rafters. We left the gap between each rafter exposed to see if it really needed filling or not.
    Also we noticed that we could see the “pink” battens plus also the gap between the Larch planks were much more obvious higher up because we are looking upwards and able to “see” up the slope between the rows of Larch.
    Templates Created and Larch Planks Starts Going up on Walls

    The-clad-P1-Wall

    Templates Created and Larch Planks Starts Going up on Walls

    You-can-see-the-Pink-batten-between-the-planks



    So we spend a couple of hours painting the top 500mm of the pink batten along the front of the house, including all under the front door porch area with black paint we had left-over and we will also close up the gap of the upper rows to reduce the impact of the joints.
    The final day Saturday, was a rain washed out day so we got on with another job, fitting the filter modules and sterilising unit together, along with a submerged pump to our rain water underground tank. See Rain Water Underground Tank Brought Into Operation.
    Next week, weather permitting, we will resume putting up more cladding on the walls but if disrupted by bad weather, then we will do some preparation work to produce more Oak decorative coverings for the corners of the building.
    Templates Created and Larch Planks Starts Going up on Walls

    So-we-painted-the-top-of-the-battens-black

    Templates Created and Larch Planks Starts Going up on Walls

    Right-up-the-porch-wall-


  • First Set of Larch Timber Dipped in Fire Retardant Liquid and Second Set Dipped in Oil

    This week, we finished waterproofing our dunking trough, with two layers of thin plastic sheeting we found in the shed and then covered over with a left-over length of our roofing membrane material to provide a scratch resistant surface as we dip each plank in and out.
    Then we made five spikey drain support strips, spaced apart 1.2metres so we could do every length we had from 3mtres to 5.7metres. Each strip was 1.2metres long and we used forty 100mm standard nails, hammered through the batten via pre-drilled clearance holes, spaced apart by 25mm and this would allow us to handle 39 planks at a time.

    Dunking-tank-ready-for-use

    Dunking-tank-ready-for-use


    The first job was to pour in our Flame Retardant treatment .. no actually, it was to pour in a large trug of water first, about 30 litres and leave it for an hour to make sure we don’t have a leak. We can afford to lose some tap water but not our Flame Retardant Liquid which costs £1000 for three 25litre bottles!! Link to the product
    But we needn’t had feared .. we had No Leaks! Phew!
    So we poured in two bottles of the fire stuff and started dipping. We measured the level in the trough at the beginning and it was 42mm high for 50 litres.
    We began with the widest planks first, the 150mm width and all 4 metres long.
    It was not too bad a process, dip one in, rotate in the liquid to ensure a full coating and then lift out to drain and repeat.
    First-batch-of-planks-Fire-Treated

    First-batch-of-planks-Fire-Treated


    We had started in the afternoon as the morning was spent making the spikey draining prongs. But we wanted to get all 300 planks dipped so that they could and should dry overnight before they get their second and third dunk. It was a very, very long afternoon and we finished just gone 7pm ? Phew!
    Fire-treatment-Day-1

    Fire-treatment-Day-1


    But shock! Horror! We suddenly realised that our nails were corroding and leaving black lines on our nice Larch planks! Oh **** and double damn! The Fire Treatment liquid was water based and we found that the fire proofing chemical was speeding up the whole rusting process! So we needed to clean the nails, dry them off and spray them with black metal paint to protect them. That was done at 9pm! Oh Boy!
    In the morning, Stephen found on the web a solution to remove rust marks from timber by using a solution of Oxalic acid to dissolve the iron oxide and he was all ready to order the necessary chemicals when mum said “look under on the shelf in the kitchen and you will find a fifty year old bottle” and apparently, it was a common laundry solution in getting rid of rust marks on clothing! So making up the required solution, we rubbed the rust marks on the timber .. and they disappeared .. to only leave a bright yellow smear over the spot!! Big Sigh!! What Now??! Roll eyes upwards!!
    Black-Iron-marks-on-the-timber

    Black-Iron-marks-on-the-timber

    Treated-with-Oxalic-acid

    Treated-with-Oxalic-acid

    Marks-are-gone-but-

    Marks-are-gone-but-

    it-leaves-a-yellow-stain

    it-leaves-a-yellow-stain



    It must be the fire treatment chemicals doing it! Oh Boy! We took some scraps of Larch timber and dipped them into the treatment, wiped them with the rust remover to get the yellow smear and then left them outside in the sun to see if they will bleach away. We were also thinking about sanding the surface or wire brushing it or something to get rid of the rust marks etc. That would have to be done later on.

    In the meantime, we resumed the dipping process, but in reverse, taking the planks from the drying pile (yes the planks were all dry!) and gave them their second dunk. By lunch time, we had done all the long narrow planks and to our frustrations, we saw that we were leaving black marks on the planks in addition to the rust marks and realised that the black paint we put on the previous night had not survived for some reason. We threw Our Hands Up In The Air!!! Arrgh! So after lunch, We replaced all the draining prongs with 90mm galvanised air-gun nails and made five replacement draining supports, but spaced apart by 30mm this time, affording us to handle 33 planks instead of the 39 before.
    So, mid-afternoon, we resumed again, dipping all the remaining planks and finished nearly 7pm again!! Were We Whacked!!! Gee Wizz!

    Fire-treatment-Day-2

    Fire-treatment-Day-2


    The third day of dipping, we had some good news to start off with, we saw that the yellow smear had disappeared completely! Hurray!! It seems that the yellow chemical was not very stable, at least, the test pieces we left outside in the sun had lost their yellow!! Yippee!
    With a lighter heart, we got on with the final third dip, putting our third bottle of the treatment in the trough and got on with the dunking process.

    We had been measuring the liquid level each day and we could see that we were using about 20mm of liquid for each dipping session and that was good. by the end of the third day, we had just a few millimetres of liquid left in the bottom of the trough, we had to wiggle the planks and flip them over several times to make sure they were fully coated.

    Fire-treatment-Day-3

    Fire-treatment-Day-3


    We then vacuumed out the remaining liquid, using a fine cloth filter to remove as much of the brown particles that had come off the darker burnt timbers and we manage to rescue about 6 litres, still slightly brown colour but at least, we have some ready to coat on any timber piece we want to make sure it is fire treated.
    That was the end of the third day on Thursday!

    So on Friday, it was the turn of the second pile of Larch timber that is earmarked for the front of the building and didn’t require the fire treatment process and just the oil solution. We poured in two of our four bottles of decking oil into the trough and got on dipping another 300 planks (just shy of 300 actually). It was a bit more slippery! But all were dunked in oil and stacked up over near the front of the building, ready to go outside to be mounted up on the walls.

    Oiled-planks

    Oiled-planks


    That was easy! Sigh!
    The last day was spent doing a major tidy up job in the workshop, taking out the ill-fated nails, putting tools away and sweeping the whole place. We then install the Sun Shield on the corridor and lastly inspected our water tank we got on top of our garage roof. It hadn’t been inspected for several years so while we were up there, we took a look and it was all fine.
    So that concludes our rather adventurous week!! Phew!

  • All Larch Timber Scorched and Chemical Dunk Trough Built

    The last two weeks saw the completion of scorching all the Larch cladding timber. A total of 596 planks of varying lengths from 3metres, right up to 5.7metres and different widths of 75mm, 100mm and 125mm. They all had a position in a list that describes how much scorching each had, from level zero (not touched by any flames) to a deep burn at level 5. We eventually, after having to do running repairs and improvements to the Scorching Machine (a new Motor driver heatsink amd replacement snadpaper on the drive rollers), processed all 441 Planks that needed scorching. Our canister of Butane gas, had 19kg of gas at the start. This went down to just 2kg at the end so how about that then?!

    Replaced-sandpaper-on-drive-drums

    Replaced-sandpaper-on-drive-drums

    New-Heatsink-for-motor-drive

    New-Heatsink-for-motor-drive

    All-the-scorched-planks

    All-the-scorched-planks


    The next task was to do a grand tidy up of the whole area, moving the scorching machine over to be stored away in a corner for emergencies, sweep up the brown “charcoal” dust that was produced by the scrubbing process, probably about good bucket load and a general sweep right across the middle of the building, another 2 buckets of mostly sand.

    Pile-of-removed-burnt-wood-dust

    Pile-of-removed-burnt-wood-dust

    Then, we sorted out all the scorched planks into two main piles, one for fire treatment; these planks are destined for the back of the building nearest to the boundary and the side next to the garage too. The other main pile is earmarked for the front of the building and only going to have the single treatment of being oiled. The two piles are quite similar in size.

    The last day on Saturday was spent building the basic structure of our dunking trough to apply the necessary treatments. It is a long trough nearly 6metres, 160mm wide at the bottom and the two sides gently fans outwards to a height of 100mm. Then a 4foot wide draining board was constructed all the way along one side so we can position the freshly dunked planks up on the slope and reclaim the dripping liquid and recycle it for the next planks.

    Dunking-tank-on-Saturday-13th

    Dunking-tank-on-Saturday-13th

    Dunking-tank-on-Saturday-13th

    Dunking-tank-on-Saturday-13th


    Next week, we will seal the trough with plastic layers to retain the liquid and then start treating the Larch timber.

  • Scorching Machine is Complete

    It took another three weeks to finish off tweaking the design of the scorching machine, with many iterative changes as we test and adapt the machine (As usual things take much longer than you expect, but I have enjoyed the change of work).
    We started by moving the machine into the house (after cleaning up a bit), we then made a extension to the input side to guide and support the plank entering the machine.

    Input-rollers-on-the-machine

    Input-rollers-on-the-machine


    We did some test runs, and we can vary the amount of “burn” from a black highly charred finished to a gentle pale scorching. We have selected 5 levels of speed, all the way from a very slow 10mm per second (very highly burnt) to a much quicker 40mm per second to produce the pale finish. We also have the option of no scorching at all and this being our sixth level.
    Our-six-scorch-levels

    Our-six-scorch-levels



    We put up a block of different burnt timbers on our house wall in the full sunshine to examine it and decide on what patterns we might like on different walls, taking into account their compass orientations, the windows sills and headers etc.
    First-set-of-graduated-boards-on-a-wall

    First-set-of-graduated-boards-on-a-wall

    We-decided-to-flip-the-bottom-rows-

    We-decided-to-flip-the-bottom-rows-



    The next job was to build a spreadsheet of all our walls (fifteen of them), with their compass orientation, whether it is under a porch, then divide the wall up into three vertical sections (under the windows, beside the window itself and lastly above) to allocate what level of scorching is desired and then find solutions to the pattern of plank widths to fit into each section. This resulted in a table of quantity’s vs plank width and scorch level.

    We started to process the wide planks first (they are nearest) and we had lightly scorched (#1) some planks when a plank got stuck. Shaun was running the machine whilst Stephen was wire brushing the finished planks so We did not notice for a while until Stephen looked over and saw the smoke poring out! We shut off the burners and when we examined the machine we found one of the motors had sheared it’s flexible connector…

    Drive-adapter-sheared-off

    Drive-adapter-sheared-off


    We repaired the machine and carried on but a few planks later we had a jam again (the plank sometime wanders off or bends), we caught this one earlier and no damage was done. At this point we decided (being nerds and all) that we would add sensors to the machine to detect any stall and sound an alarm. In hind sight we should just have carried on whilst keeping a good eye on the machine as getting sensors to work reliably took 2 weeks (but that’s hindsight for you)!
    The machine needed to know 3 things – When the plank enters, when it leaves and if its moving. The first two should be simple just put a switch near the plank to be pressed when the plank is in. The movement detector devised initially was a metal wheel on a shaft which had a sensor measuring the shaft rotation, the shaft being mounted on a pivot which kept the wheel in contact with the plank.
    Input-plank-sensor-switch

    Input-plank-sensor-switch

    Rolling-encoder-mechanism

    Rolling-encoder-mechanism



    So having built the sensors and fitted them it took a day to write the software to run the machine and start testing. The metal wheel did not run very consistently on the plank even after filing some ‘teeth’ on on it so after a while a new system was devised to put encoder disk and sensors on the pinch rollers which force the plank against the drive rollers (an all together better way but you don’t always think of the best way first). This was fabricated, installed and worked reliably.
    Encoder-disk-and-sensor-on-a-pinch-roller

    Encoder-disk-and-sensor-on-a-pinch-roller

    Protecting-the-plastic-encoder-from-the-heat

    Protecting-the-plastic-encoder-from-the-heat



    The next problem was that when we turned on the burners the output switch got too hot! Again a different system was needed, we needed to get the switch away from the heat so various pivoted arms where fabricated, tried and modified. But after a long time trying to get them to work reliably we gave up on this idea as well.
    Wheel-lever-output-switch

    Wheel-lever-output-switch


    A non contact sensor was needed and a light sensor placed just below the plank would give different readings to show when the plank was present or not. This was fabricated and fitted and worked! We finally had a working machine and just a bit of fine tuning of the software was done. On the last Saturday a revelation was had! in that there had always been a lever to activate a switch built in to the machine from the beginning. The output flame guard was hinged on a rod which come out the side of the machine and this rod was turned when the flame guard was pushed up by the plank. This rod happened to have a bent end which was ideal for pushing a switch so we fitted a switch so now we have two output sensors which work…
    Optical-output-plank-sensor

    Optical-output-plank-sensor

    Output-switch-using-the-flame-flap

    Output-switch-using-the-flame-flap



    So we finally have a machine for processing the planks, which will probably only take a week!
    Final-Control-board-and-wiring

    Final-Control-board-and-wiring

  • Larch scorching machine progressing

    You may remember that we have decided to lightly scorch all of our larch cladding to give the walls more texture both visual and physical.
    We are using an ancient Japanese technique called “Shou-sugi-ban Yakisugi”, although we are not burning the wood as deeply.
    As we have over 2300 m (7500 ft) of timber to scorch we decided to make a machine to automate the process (and of course because we’re nerds). We made a start on the machine back in March (Article), but we now have bought the motors and electronics to carry on.
    So over the last two weeks Stephen has been working on this whilst Shaun does other things around the house.
    First part of the job was to build the computerised controls for the motors so we can select the burn rate and pattern. This was completed by the end of the first week after lots of programming and learning about motor control feedback.

    Control-Board-and-Motors-Day-1

    Control-Board-and-Motors-Day-1


    On Monday of the second week the motors were installed to the machine and testing of wood through the machine revealed some problems… the wood was moving a bit irregularly and had difficulties at slow speed. Lubricating all the rollers did not improve things enough and it was concluded we needed bigger motors! On Tuesday we remembered that we had some bigger motors bought for use in a giant CNC machine (which will be built eventually!).
    Comparing-Motor-sizes

    Comparing-Motor-sizes


    So it was back to the electronics bench to rewire and reprogram the controller for the quite different motors. By the end of the next day everything was mounted and working well.
    Control-board-and-larger-motors-mounted-to-machine-Day-3

    Control-board-and-larger-motors-mounted-to-machine-Day-3


    The next step was to improve the way the torches were mounted as we needed more control of the flames, so we made two rails with T slots in them then we clamped the torches by the tubes leading to the burners. The torches are mounted to pairs facing in opposite directions allowing maximum adjustments.
    Torch-mounting-system

    Torch-mounting-system

    Gas-burners

    Gas-burners



    As expected the flames started to burn the plywood sides of the machine, so we made protective barriers comprising glass fibre insulation wrapped in foil behind steel plates, and added hinged steel plates across the wood to protect the drive rollers.
    Burning-machine-Day-6-Inside-

    Burning-machine-Day-6-Inside-


    Then we made a stand for the machine to make it stable and allow the use of roller stands to support the long planks of wood.
    Burning-machine-Day-6

    Burning-machine-Day-6


    It was time to burn the first plank! This worked quite well so we needed to wire brush the loose char off. So of course we needed another machine …
    We bought an adaptor kit for a angle grinder but found it did not fit any of our angle grinders so we had to adapt it! So a quick bit of drilling and welding later we had a powered wire brush drum.
    Drum-adapter-kit

    Drum-adapter-kit

    Gaint-wire-wheel-to-clean-burned-planks-1

    Gaint-wire-wheel-to-clean-burned-planks-1

    Gaint-wire-wheel-to-clean-burned-planks-2

    Gaint-wire-wheel-to-clean-burned-planks-2



    So we brushed the plank off and had a quite nice result.
    First-burned-plank

    First-burned-plank


    Next week we will complete the machine with some extra rollers and guide to make it easier to use.

  • We are Weather tight! All Window Frames installed and “glazed”

    Continuing from Wednesday, with the guttering job done, we got on with installing our oak window frames. Over the next three days, we took each frame, test fitted it (making any slight adjustments to the wall when necessary but not often), sanding down all the surfaces (of the hole in the wall) to make sure the glue will stick with maximum strength. Then the next step was to charge the cleaned surface with our grey PU sealant glue all over the area being covered by the window frame (about 70mm wide) pressing the glue into the grain and any gaps holes etc. and then lifting and inserting the oak frame in. We had our 60mm spacers to put at the outside top to ensure that the frame didn’t go too far inwards and then it was wedged in place from the inside. Finally, more sealant was applied around the perimeter, filling in our small triangle chamfer and any gap around the outside to ensure strength to resist any rain water that may get blown in and then finished off inside with more sealant for maximum grip and protection. Sometimes if the gap was over few millimetres we inserted a foam strip into the gap to give the sealant something to fill against.

    Larger-gaps-are-backed-with-a-foam-strip

    Larger-gaps-are-backed-with-a-foam-strip


    This task took almost 40 tubes of sealant (Stephen’s hand was tired of squeezing the sealant gun)

    For the last window task, we bought some thick heavy duty clear (well not very clear actually – about 60% transmission) polythene builders plastic and used double sided tape to attach pieces into all twelve windows to keep the wind out which keeps bringing in sand and dust into the house. Oh Yes, to stop the rain too of course!

    The-P1-window-installed-and-glazed

    The-P1-window-installed-and-glazed

    The-glazing-is-Translucent

    The-glazing-is-Translucent



    It is only temporary while we wait for the COVID-19 lock down to be lifted and we can get extra people in to help us install the nine large windows which will weigh a ton .. well actually 115kg or about 17 stones (or for our Americans cousins, 253lbs!). It might be quite a while hence the reason for putting in these plastic windows.

    We finished mid-afternoon on Saturday and for the remainder of the day, we started a complete and thorough “spring” clean of the house! At long last, we won’t get any more sand and dust (and foxes) coming into the house and dumping their loads!! Over the last couple of years, we probably had swept up a good dozen builder’s buckets worth of sand and now, with all the holes, all fifteen of them, blocked off, we can do a thorough job and it will keep relatively clean for longer .. until we come along and mess it up of course!

  • Finished Bringing Gutters Back to Fresh Colours and All Oiled

    We started the week with the continuing task of cleaning the gutters and fascia. After being exposed to the sun and weather for at least 5 months and in some areas, well over a year they are rather discoloured. We ground off the affected surface using our angle grinder with a 40 grit abrasive wheel and then the orbital sander to smooth it off somewhat. We then oiled the wood to give it the initial coating and we will then come along with our back pack tank with a battery to spray on additional coats every week or so, just a thin layer at a time.

    Gutter-refurb-finfished

    Gutter-refurb-finfished


    We did the sanding and oiling using three of our original platform modules that had been cut down so the guttering were at chest height. Occasionally, we had to spread out the platforms to reach both ends of a straight run of guttering in one go and this meant that we had to step over small gaps (about a foot) but fortunately, we had screwed edging strips on all the modules to give us tactile feedback when shuffling along, concentrating on the task, and would know that we had reached an edge.

  • Inspecting the Gutters, Sealed the Metal Mesh Edge and Starting to clean and oil them.

    We started our week on a Tuesday after having a day off for Easter. We finished off applying the black yukky mastic stuff to the top edge of the Slate Skirt and it is now done right around the whole house. We also have been moving the excess Slates from the long time storage location beside the Loke to our swimming lane, to get them out of the way and tidied up under cover. The crate of slate was slowly sinking into the ground soil and an army of nature’s creatures have been living in between the layers of slates!

    Then we decided to get on with the inspection of the guttering and finish off checking the sealing of the rubber membrane at their ends. We also sealed the metal mesh edge to the front vertical part of the gutters. They are clamped down using a thin oak strip so we applied some clear silicone sealant inside the joint and screwed it all tight again.
    This will stop the rain water from leaking through this joint and dripping down on to the ground. The water has a habit to cling to the metal mesh and rolling down towards the clamped joint and work its way through. Also, there is a strong possibility that the same water would catch any holes or the edge of the rubber membrane and travel backwards under the rubber and back into the gutters. We found one or two sections having rain water underneath the rubber membrane so we had to lift it up and suck out the water. The worse example of this was the “M” section and we found that the rubber edge was barely on the top of the oak vertical timber piece.

    Working-on-gutters

    Working-on-gutters

    Sealed-gutter-cap

    Sealed-gutter-cap



    On Wednesday afternoon, we went around the complete circuit of the house and painted behind the fascia board, making sure it was nice and neat down to the bottom of the fascia. Most of it was done when we sprayed several weeks ago but we had a mobile barrier to protect our guttering against accidental splatters.
    Black-inside-of-the-fascia

    Black-inside-of-the-fascia


    We finished off the day with the excess slate moving task, finally having got all 2600 of them into our swimming lane for long-term storage.
    Spare-Slates-stored-in-swimming-lane-1

    Spare-Slates-stored-in-swimming-lane-1

    Spare-Slates-stored-in-swimming-lane-2

    Spare-Slates-stored-in-swimming-lane-2



    So on Friday, we started vigorously sanding the oak gutters, first trying our belt sander but found it too heavy to hold upside down and it wasn’t quite getting into the corners plus also the flat bed design couldn’t cope with the uneven timber. So we switched over to our angle grinder with a very course 40 grit sanding disc. This was very much better at removing the grey colouring in the wood caused by exposure to sun and the weather. Our orbital sander then came along to smooth off the surfaces, with occasional hand sanding.
    Gutters-after-a-year-of-weather

    Gutters-after-a-year-of-weather

    Sanding-the-gutters

    Sanding-the-gutters



    Then we applied the timber oil treatment to the naked oak surfaces using a 4inch wide fluffy woolly roller and left it to soak in and dry.
    and-after-sanding-and-oiling-1

    and-after-sanding-and-oiling-1

    and-after-sanding-and-oiling-2

    and-after-sanding-and-oiling-2

    and-after-sanding-and-oiling-3

    and-after-sanding-and-oiling-3



    We also oiled our first window frame too to see how it fares, see how often we will have to oil it and see how it rubs down.
    H-window-oiled-1

    H-window-oiled-1

    H-window-oiled-2

    H-window-oiled-2



    Our last day, Saturday, was a rather wet day with a steady rain falling all day but we did take that opportunity and go and check the guttering to see if we had any water dripping over the gutters. The conclusion was .. much better! It was difficult to tell to which drip was rain just landing on the gutter itself or coming from water running down the mesh but we carefully watched these drips and it seems that our sealant is working! Hurray!
    Also the freshly oiled surface of the gutters was resisting the water and making it bead up and run off more efficiently. Another Hurray!
    So we worked indoors on the gas flame burning mechanism, a couple of electric motors to drive the rollers that will guide each larch timber plank through the charring machine. We want to establish a uniform speed so the pattern of charring is smoother and more consistent. We will experiment with deliberately changing the motor speeds and see what unusual patterns we might get.

    Next week, we carry on cleaning the gutters and oiling them and then we carry on installing the other eleven windows.

  • Slate Skirt Complete

    By Tuesday lunch time, we had finished gluing up all the Slates that forms the Skirt on the wall running right around the house. Some 300 slates were stuck onto the polystyrene padding layer so two thirds are above ground and the remainder is in the dirt.

    Slate Skirt Complete

    Slated-along-O-and-around-the-corner-to-P1


    Over the remaining days of the week, we were grouting the slates in sections using a anthracite coloured (dark grey) cement based grout, which we used up 17.5kg of grout. We had to order another 10 kg because we had not realised to how much more grout these slates took to fill the joints (the bevelled edges were facing backwards so had a hollow to fill up). The new supply arrived very quickly on Thursday morning. After each section was grouted we went along and removed any excess grout with a wet sponge, then as each section matured and hardened overnight, that section was scrubbed with a rough ‘scotchbrite’ pad and washed using our garden hose connected to a brush to provide a constantly running clean water.
    Slate Skirt Complete

    Slates-before-final-scrub

    Slate Skirt Complete

    Grouted-corner



    We had a side issue to deal with on Thursday with the repair of the garden shed’s roof, see Garden Shed Repair
    But in the afternoon, we managed to fill in all the way along the front of the building, pushing the sandy soil back into the trench and level off the area in front of the slates
    So by Saturday mid-afternoon, the whole Slate Skirt was all grouted, all washed and the soil pushed in and levelled. Also half of it had the non-drying black mastic applied to the top of the skirt to seal it off against any chance of rain water getting inside behind and perhaps freezing during a bad winter and causing damage.
    Slate Skirt Complete

    The-finished-skirt-1

    Slate Skirt Complete

    The-finished-skirt-2

    Slate Skirt Complete

    The-finished-skirt-3-

    Slate Skirt Complete

    The-finished-skirt-4

    Slate Skirt Complete

    The-finished-skirt-5



    The last few hours of work for this week was to install one of our window frames with our newly arrived grey PU sealant. We made wedges to help jam the frame into the house holes when they are in the correct position and a couple of spacers to make sure the top edge, the header, is held at the right distance away from the wall.
    We first charged all the surfaces (after brushing off all the dust first) with a thin layer of the sealant and then slid the framework into the hole. Then all the outside exposed joints were thoroughly filled in with more sealant and scraped smooth at a slight angle to improve the bulk strength and make it long-lasting. We had allocated three tubes (standard 300ml size) to each of our twelve windows. We had about a quarter of a tube left so instead of using more of the grey stuff, we decided to use some older white PU sealant to put a thin bead around the inside joint.
    Slate Skirt Complete

    First-window-framed-installed

    Slate Skirt Complete

    Detail-of-frame-sealant



    That concludes our work for this week! The last of the mastic application will be put on the next week (we couldn’t do it immediately because the washing operation left the slates and walls still wet) and we will carry on installing more oak windows frames as well.

  • Slate Skirt Continues to Half Way

    We started the week reviewing our complete set of task lists, removing those ones that we have done, and adding new ones plus doing some other chores like shopping. So after lunch, we resumed work on creating the Skirt to run around at ground level. The first job was to mark the wall at each corner (both inside and outside ones) and then snap a chalk line between all these marks so we had a consistent line to follow. Then we installed the eight cement corners, or rather the remaining seven of them that go in the inside facing corners that covers up the downpipe coming from the gutters.

    Slate Skirt Continues to Half Way

    Cement-board-cover-for-G-downpipe


    The next two following days were spent installing the polystyrene corners and strips. The nine outer corners went on first, removing any bottoms of the cladding battens where they were too long (and we resprayed the fresh cut ends with more wood preservative treatment) and in a couple of places, we had to stick on some extra thin padding layers onto the wall surface because the concrete blocks didn’t quite align up to the wooden wall above. Each corner was held on using two plastic nails and mastic along the top to help seal and stick it down. Then the rest of the day and half of the following day was spent putting up the 400mm high strips fitting in between each corner piece. We are drilling a 8mm diameter hole through the polystyrene material and into the concrete block behind and then a plastic nail was hammered in. We are spacing them out at about 200mm apart and our 400 nails we bought was enough at the end of the day, we had about 60 of them left!
    Slate Skirt Continues to Half Way

    Polystyrene-skirt-base-1

    Slate Skirt Continues to Half Way

    Polystyrene-skirt-base-2

    Slate Skirt Continues to Half Way

    Polystyrene-skirt-base-3



    The remaining of the day, the Wednesday afternoon, and a couple of hours on the following Thursday morning, was spent slicing up a load of slates into narrow strips, 55mm high by 200mm wide. These will serve the job of covering up the little slopes along the top on the new polystyrene skirt.
    Slate Skirt Continues to Half Way

    Over-300-strips-of-slate-for-the-tops-of-the-skirt


    Then we made a smaller pile of vertical 95mm wide by 300mm tall pieces which will cover the octagon corners, the face of them, and then even smaller pieces to do the slopes on top too.
    Carrying on with this making slates pieces, the next shape was the narrow vertical strips for the outer corners and their associated little rhomboid piece on top again.
    By the end of the day, we made also the left and right handed narrow strips that has a 20degree angle sliced into them, a whole heap of them.
    Slate Skirt Continues to Half Way

    Octaganal-parts-for-corners

    Slate Skirt Continues to Half Way

    Top-strips-for-outside-corners



    After a morning spent on other chores, we resumed Friday afternoon on finishing off slicing the last dozen or so special shaped slate pieces.
    Slate Skirt Continues to Half Way

    Top-strips-for-inside-corners


    Then we got on with the task of gluing all these slates pieces onto the Skirt! We started along the front of the house at the Conservatory plus around the corner along the “A” wall and in the few hours, we managed to get 30 slates up on the polystyrene strips, plus three corners done too.
    Slate Skirt Continues to Half Way

    Slates-on-glued-on-Inside-corner

    Slate Skirt Continues to Half Way

    Slates-glued-on-Friday



    For the last day of the week, we managed to do a further 150 slates, completing the “A”, “B”, “C”, “D”, “E” and “H” wall sections. Each length of wall was measured and then divided up into slate width plus a gap and then adjusted so that the beginnings and ends had larger even off-cuts pieces and avoid having very small narrow strips. We are mixing about 10kg of the cement based tiling adhesive for approximately every 35 slates, this means we now have used 54kg or just under three bags so far. We have five more bags to go, 100kg in total, so we should have enough!
    The final job was to clean the surfaces and the gaps between the slates, ready for the grouting.
    Slate Skirt Continues to Half Way

    Slates-glued-Saturday-1

    Slate Skirt Continues to Half Way

    Slates-glued-Saturday-2

    Slate Skirt Continues to Half Way

    Slates-glued-Saturday-3



    We will finish off Roselea’s Skirt next week so she can feel good that any dirty rainwater won’t splash up on to her cladding and cause some upsets, disease and rot!