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Finally Installed the Last of the Utility Connections for Outside Expansion

While we were waiting for some replacement router tongue and groove cutters, we decided to get on and finish the final piece of work we started last year in May, see Installed Dozens of Conduits and Pipes through the External Wall for Future Expansion for more details.
We had to wait because the location had a giant bag of insulation foam rubbish occupying the area, so only when we had emptied it, and tidied it all up, that we could gain access, to dig a large hole in the soil underneath the Bedroom One’s window. We drilled four holes through the concrete blocks, just underneath the slate skirt.

Holes-drilled-for-connections

The first one was a 16mm hole for the copper pipe and connector, ready for cold water to irrigate the garden. The next two holes were drilled with a 22mm drill bit plus a short depth of 25mm to accommodate the pipe adapter on the back of the electrical waterproof junction boxes. The final hole was also done using a 22mm bit and this one is for the temperature conduit that is buried into the soil, going down 2 metres. We got out our vacuum to drill this 2metre hole!

All-connections-installed

The water connection had a temporary outside tap fitted so we can have access to water without having to run the hose right around the whole garden.

Pipe-to-a-tap-on-a-pole

All-filled-in

The last uncompleted job was to install the weatherproof mains electric socket up on the wall itself, we will do that in a couple of weeks when we can get into the other corner, Bedroom One is full of sheet material at the moment.

Electric-socket-for-M-Alcove-1

Electric-socket-for-M-Alcove-2

5 March 2022
Second Piece of Damage Caused by Storm Eunice, Our Wooden Fencing

We spent the last couple of days, a few hours on each day, repairing the fence bordering our Loke, that was damaged by Storm Eunice back on the 18th February 2022. She had snapped one of the metal post holders in half, leaving the spike buried in the ground, while the socket part with its wooden post still in it, and also still attached to the wooden panels, was flung across the garden and part the way out on to the Loke too. It had broken several pieces of the framework making up a panel plus literally snapping a corner out of another panel.

Storm-damage-to-fence-1

Storm-damage-to-fence-2

Storm-damage-to-fence-3

After detangling the wooden panels from the fence post, unscrewing smashed support ties and other bits and pieces to get the panels separated, we were then took each one in turn into the house to repair and reinforce them back into some assemblance of normality. We actually repaired three in total, even though only two of the panels were lying on the ground, we found the first panel had some broken structs so that got done too.
Next, was to remove the metal socket off the wooden post (it was clamped on so just a case of loosening a couple of captive bolts) and then digging out the buried spike, bringing both pieces indoors and cleaning them up using grinding discs and wire wheels to get the protective paint off so it was ready for welding back together. We found some iron strips of band and used them to reinforce the whole thing, with lots of weld points everywhere. After that we painted it green, using a metal paint to help prevent major rusting and left it to harden overnight.
On the following afternoon, we proceeded to rebuild the fence, driving the repaired metal support holder back into the ground and then slid the wooden panels back into place. We had to relevel a couple of the concrete blocks under the middle panel but everything went back pretty neatly. We screwed all the wooden panels securely on to the post again to save them from slipping out in windy conditions.

That concludes the repairs caused by storm Eunice and hopefully we won’t suffer another incident any time soon!!

27 February 2022
Storm Eunice Ripped Several Pieces of Roofing Felt Off

This afternoon we took to the sky and repaired a smallish section of roof on our Temporary Living Quarters, damaged by Storm Eunice a couple of days ago. It managed to peel off half a strip of roofing felt down at the far end of the roof and a smaller piece also down that end too. We had some spare felt in the garden shed, some nails and half a tin of bitumen horrible black sticky glue. First of all, we levered up the edge of the next strip of felt up the roof (it was going over the central ridge line), got the nails out and slid under the edge a length of the new felt. We used plenty of the bitumen glue to stick down the edge and then nailed everything together to make sure the wind didn’t pick up the felt and cause more damage while the glue is drying. Then a smaller piece slid under the previous strip we just done and applied more glue to that overlapping edge too, finishing off with another line of nails, plus a dozen nails to pin down the loose edge that bends over the edge of the roof and down the wall a little way.

Temporary-living-roof-repaired

To make sure we did not suffer the same faith again, we screwed down a 6 foot length of batten across the end of the roof, to clamp down the ends of the roofing felt, and avoid the chance of another Storm coming along and ripping more felt off our roof!

23 February 2022
Removal of Builder’s Rubble

We took the opportunity to empty our builder’s rubble we have collected over the last couple of years. We had been loading up two separate ton bags with various rubbish like concrete blocks cut-offs, rubble, cement board pieces, sandy dirt and other builder’s junk that we couldn’t burn. We had teamed up with our neighbours and hired jointly a large skip which was loaded up with more builder’s rubble and dirt from the bottom of the Loke and the earth bank that separates us from the school field, and there was enough room left over to allow us to empty our own rubbish.

Feb-2022-skip-filled-with-Loke-debris-and-building-rubbish

One very full skip which will be taken away soon.

7 February 2022
Floor and Walls Constructed for Bedroom Two and Tech Cupboard

We started the new year of 2022, after we had our mini break, by resuming the construction of Bedroom Two. We needed to finish the floor and to that goal, we created our next air distributor module. Using more left-over floorboards, we made a triangular shape that takes in the incoming air through a 110mm wide socket and goes out four 50mm outlets. It measures 300mm deep so it has time to compress and spread the air out and we also included two manually adjustable flaps to deflect some of the air from the outer most outlets so we can balance the air flow down all four different length ducts to the dispersers locations.

Diverter-box-installed

Diverter-box-with-flaps

After it had an overnight of drying and curing, we installed the module in the doorway and then connected up the four orange 63mm flexible ducts and we tested it. Using our mobile Air Generator, we blasted air into the distributor module and out at all four wall dispersers and measured the air flow rate coming out the two sideway facing tubes. With the Air Generator running at maximum speed, we were getting values of 40km/h for the shortest conduit length and 30km/h on one of the longest lengths. We noticed that the rate coming out of the right and left arms of the disperser were not exactly the same which was curious, must be something to do with the way air twirls inside the conduit etc but it did seems to be always the right arm having the higher rates. Anyway, we turned down the fan to its minimum speed to get closer to “normal” flow rates, and then we balanced as best as we could by adjusting the two flaps so all four dispersers were outputting approximately similar air flow rates. Even this test, the air flow rate being used here, is far more than what will be the everyday background rates as for example, this bedroom is about 36 cubic metres of air and we desire about 1 complete room change of air for every hour. That means 36 cubic metres or 36,000 litres of air need to flow in (and out) of the room per hour, this means 10litres per second in total going into the distributor module but splits up into our eight dispersers which means approximately 1.5litres per second for each arm. Our test we did today actually had about 12litres per second of air coming out of each arm and that was the lowest fan speed and it was only a gentle breeze coming out. This means that to satisfy our requirements of 1 room change of air per hour, the air flow is going to be very very gentle indeed for our background flow rates but we can increase the rate when we need to, perhaps to remove solar heat coming in our large windows.
After all that mathematics, we got back to the nitty gritty work of putting in horrible glass wool insulation into the floor space to fill up the remaining air volume above the PU foam rubbish. We used all our left-over chunks of rock wool we had lying around for years and spread it out so it fills it up to touch the underside of the floor boards when it goes down.

Final-floor-insulation

Then we had to grab 14 more sheets of our 22mm thick floorboards from our outside piles under the tarpaulin but we discovered that our tarpaulin, even though it was double layered, was letting a small amount of rain water through and wetting our chipboard floorboards. It is quite annoying and it is so difficult to keep such material dry. We pulled off our 14 sheets we will need and even though it is wet, it doesn’t look too bad. we used our trolley to transport that load into the house via the front door and laid them all out all over our hallways to dry off overnight before we actually laid them down. We have two sheets that has been indoors for a few months since doing the hallways and we will compare them.
The main pile outside, we put on two more fresh plastic sheeting to try to reduce this water problem and also we laid down a sacrificial OSB board to act as a protective layer to stop sharp claws from birds and cats in making holes in our plastic tarpaulin but we have decided that we will have to move the entire stack all into the house as soon as we have finished Bedroom Two.
Anyway, we proceeded to cover the floor with these 22mm thick chipboard sheets, needing just over two lengths to do each row.
We got it all done but it was noticeable that some of the boards had small swollen sections caused by the rainwater so we will have to sand the whole floor later on to smooth it off and get it ready for the future underlay and carpets.

Bedroom-2-Floor-installed

The next job we tackled was to start building the wall finishing layers, including the air channel running around at the bottom. We inserted a line of 150mm high MDF 6mm thick cut sheets to provide a chamber for the air to flow along sideways and drift gently into the room. We did have to make some adjustments to the air disperser because it needed to sit further backwards and avoid being squashed by the main OSB boards when those are mounted on the framework. The disperser under the window was especially tight and we had to split into the vapour barrier membrane and remove some of the glass wool and even a bit of the PU foam insulation too. We recovered the slit with another layer of the black plastic and resealed it with our conformable extra sticky tape. Then we inserted two vertical pieces of plywood behind the CLS horizontal rails around the air disperser and then a 25mm thick batten piece to anchor the disperser back into place.
Then we continued inserting our MDF pieces and completed all the round the whole room, just skipping pass the two doorways, and cutting small rectangle holes to let the air dispersers through. Finally, the top and bottom edges were sealed using black modified silicone glue to both fix the board into place but also to seal it against any air leakages.

Air-channel-installed-and-painted

While we waited for the black sealant to dry and cure, we got on with the two remaining walls inside the Tech Cupboard, putting more 18mm thick OSB sheets. Then, we glued and screwed a collection of 63mm CLS timber pieces around the circumference of the little room at the floor level, then put in two cross rails going front to back and finally put in three further cross rails but this time going side to side, all glued and left to dry and cure overnight.
We nicked one of the floorboards we had lying in our Utility Room, acting as a temporary floor covering so we swopped that one with our left-over rather damp one and use the good one to put in the flooring inside the cupboard, cutting around the metal leg of the Skylight and making room for the cables running down the walls and down under the floor.

Tech-cupboard-floor-laid

We went back to Bedroom Two, continuing with the walls by applying black paint along the bottom of the Air Channel to hide any bright gleam when the carpet is laid down. Next, and finally for the week, we put up two rolls of 100mm thick glass wool insulation and inserted layers inside the structure of the walls between Bedroom Three and Bedroom Two, providing more sound insulation, followed by horizontal strips of the wool insulation to fill the gap up between the horizontal rails, to also reduce any hollow sounds too.

Final-insulation-in-wall

We ran out of 100mm thick wool so we will need to order some more rolls to finish off this room but also to fill in all our other rooms too. That will take a few days to arrive so we will get on with the next job of putting up some of the wall panels that have a complete coverage of the glass wool like on the window wall and one of the short walls or we continue with our software and hardware development.

15 January 2022
Started On Building Bedroom Two plus Running Water Pipes Under Floor

This is a long single report to cover the work during the month of December on Bedroom Two and other jobs. We wanted to get going on creating Bedroom Two so we could move the final loads of PU foam rubbish we got stored outside in the alcove in between Bedroom One and the Great Room’s windows before Christmas arrived.
So one of the first steps was to clear everything out of the room including the huge pile of sheet materials, which got all moved into Bedroom One. Then the horizontal rails, using more of our 63mm CLS timber pieces, were positioned on all the four walls, using the green laser level to ensure consistent height, the level of our flooring. Next, was putting single piece CLS timber across the room, spaced apart by a uniform 600mm distance, each piece being just over 3700mm long. Each one having a leg fixed at every 600mm along the joist for support. A section near the on-suite doorway was doubled up around the floor joist support because this will have a removeable lid to gain access to the control devices and plumbing modules that will serve the various features in the ensuite.

Floor-grid-in-Bedroom-2

Then we laid down six sheets of OSB boards to provide a temporary floor surface for us to move around more easily and we carried on nailing up more horizontal rails all the way around the four walls like before. This forms the Utility Channel structure that allows us to route wires and cables around plus also in and out of the room. A half a dozen conduits had to be inserted into the new Utility Channel to route the cabling around windows and doorways, plus also to provide a connection to various features like the shower mixer, the vanity unit and the toilet itself. A control box provision was also created near the room’s entrance and this section will contain the computer equipment and other electrical safety devices that this bedroom will need.

Bedroom-2-Control-box-location

The window’s sill was finished by creating a chamber underneath the window seat that will hold a place for the window blinds mechanism and possibly a secret storage location too. Another conduit was inserted so wires could travel in and out of the window seat chamber, to the Utility Channel.

Conduits-Bedroom-2-Window

The next job was the plumbing running along under the hallway flooring. We needed to route a couple of 15mm water pipes from the Energy Module situated under Bedroom Two and travel all the way back to the Equipment Cupboard in the Utility Room in a neat manner. We screwed a regular set of horizontal battens across the middle set of legs that will do a double role of holding up the air duct but also provide a mounting point to keep the collection of plastic pipes neat and tidy using cable ties pushed through a drilled hole in the batten.

Hall-12-Duct-plumbing-support-ties-1

Hall-12-Duct-plumbing-support-ties-2

We continued in placing more conduits, this time under the flooring for things like the temperature sensors that surrounds the buried Energy Modules plus also a watering system for routing water to any hanging baskets from the gutters outside. We had to put in extra conduits from Bedroom Three to serve the ensuite because we had forgotten to make the connections when we were doing that bedroom earlier the year. Another conduit was laid in for our compressed air, to route it up to the top of the sliding door so it can power the movements of the doors. We put in a complete circuit of conduit around above the window and doors and this will contain the hearing loop wire to provide extra audio connections for deaf people. This circuit comes in and out of the control box.
Then the load of PU foam rubbish was brought in and laid down in the floor space, to provide insulation against the cold concrete, especially near the outside walls but also to provide some insulation against the buried Energy Module which will get warm during the summer and autumn months and we don’t want too much excess heat getting into the room.
We managed to completely empty our large external “bag” of rubbish bits and pieces and we now have been able to collapse and tidy away the plastic tarpaulin we used to construct the temporary bag. The alcove, situated around the back of the house, outside the windows of Bedroom One and the Great Room is now all neat, ready for us to dig a hole to install a couple of electrical junction box plus also an external mains electric socket.
Then we created four standard air dispersers, which were fixed to the bottom near the middle of each wall, then connected to flexible orange 50mm (the interior dimensions) twin-wall plastic conduit, going from each wall and back over to the doorway, ready for the main air splitter chamber.

Bedrrom-2-Floor-All-conduits-and-ducts-Insulation-1

Bedrrom-2-Floor-All-conduits-and-ducts-Insulation-2

The circulating hot water was next, to continue the twin lines of 28mm diameter water pipes coming from Bedroom Three, going across Ensuite Three, through the Bathroom, turning into Hallway Two and heading into Bedroom Two to arrive at the access chamber just outside Ensuite Two.
But first, we needed to get the waste plumbing pipework sorted for Ensuite Three and the Bathroom so we installed a boss fitting to the sewage stack, right down at the bottom nearest to the concrete, to allow the maximum amount of liquid level drop coming from the various waste outputs like the basin and the shower plus also the bath too. The shower’s waste is the critical one because we wanted to install a heat recovery system to recycle the hot energy from the waste water and put as much of it back into the fresh clean water going to the shower. To achieve this, the module will need space and time to maximise the energy transfer from the waste water to the clean water, before the waste water flows out and down the sewage stack.
So we put in a couple of 40mm waste pipes, with a gradient to make the water flow towards the sewage stack and got three connection points ready for future installations.
After that, we laid down a layer of 90mm thick PU foam boards going across the Ensuite and the Bathroom, 250mm wide, following the path of the Hot water. On top is another layer of PU foam, this time 100mm thick which had two grooves sliced out to encapsulate the 28mm wide plastic plumbing pipes. The path is a straight line across the two rooms but also keeping tightly to one edge so to avoid the sunken bath tub itself, where the sloping ends will be. The second layer continued into the Hallway Two section, turning towards the next plumbing destination, the ensuite in Bedroom Two. The hallway section will have many different control modules and plumbing units, having to serve plenty of surrounding rooms like the Bathroom, the Cloakroom and even to the upstairs toilet and shower too. The 28mm pipes finally continued into Bedroom Two and currently terminates inside the service chamber outside Ensuite Two. The whole lot then had a third layer of more 100mm thick PU foam to cover the plastic pipes and insulate the hot water that will be circulating continuously, to minimise the time to get any warm water coming out a tap or shower. This is very similar to a traditional central heating system and its circulation hot water and using heat exchangers or radiators to “transfer” the heat into the clean cold water or fresh air.
One of the last things we did before we closed down for Christmas was to run alongside the hot water, a cold water feed. This time we are using a bigger 32mm diameter polyethene pipe, a blue one, to provide the clean water to all the various outlets distributed around the house. It ran alongside the PU foam, following the same path and it also is currently terminates in the ensuite in Bedroom Two.

Waste-and-water-in-En-suite-3-Bathroom

Heating-pipes-turn-along-Hall-2-and-into-bedrrom-2

Hall-2-plumbing-zone

Bedroom-2-En-suite-plumbing-access

The next job when we restart in the new year, probably about the 2nd week of January after a couple weeks of holiday, is to make an air disperser unit and put in an extra electrical conduit beside the window to have ready a connection for automated curtains and lighting if we want to have such a thing.

24 December 2021
Air Duct Created up in Skylight and Down Rafters

We finished off the two air ducts we started last week. We put on the extra layer of MDF boards underneath to complete the downwards chute before it runs into the PU foam boards. We coated the MDF with several layers of acrylic varnish to seal the wood material against moisture and also sealed the joints with two-part resin wood filler, to smooth off the sharp boundaries and bends to reduce the air turbulences.

DUct-through-steel-complete-1

DUct-through-steel-complete-2

The rafter had layers of PU foam boards inserted to a depth of 250mm, with a smooth surface exposed outwards. This forms one of the four sides of the ducting travelling inside the rafter, with the two narrow edge strips glued and positioned in place with long CLS pieces of timber while the glue dried.

Duct-lining-glued-in-1

Duct-lining-glued-in-2

Finally, a lid was put on, a 25mm thick layer with its smooth surface facing inwards this time, creating the fourth side for the air to be transported downwards and into the main house ducts.

A-view-inside-the-duct

The next job was to drill a large circular hole through the Skylight to provide a 100mm diameter ducting, ready for servicing the upstairs toilet and shower room.

Upstairs-bathroom-air-duct-1

Upstairs-bathroom-air-duct-2

We then had a big tidy up of all the rubbish we generated and moved things around to make them neat and tidy. We decided that we won’t continue with putting any more insulation boards up into more rafters because it is not really making any major difference to retaining the heat, the Skylight is still completely uninsulated and all the heat will escape that way. We will continue working on the Ground floor and continue in building the next room.

27 November 2021
Roof Rafters Accessible from First Floor Has Some Insulation Inserted

This week, we completed the task of inserting at least one layer of PU foam board up into the rafters that we can reach from the First Floor .. the other half of the building, along the back doing sections M, L, K, J and I.

The task we thought we ought to do next is to make a couple of unusual air duct channels, to take the hot air out of the Skylight. We used the rafter space itself to encapsulate the air duct tubing so it is hidden and does not intrude into our living space. We had one down near the Great Room and the second location is right down at the other end of the Skylight where it squeezes through a narrow opening just before the hip section of the glass.

We had to cut our way through the kerb and all its layers of material, removing everything down to the steel RSJ surface, making a rectangular shape hole but with a tapering top surface to guide the air downwards.
We used 6mm MDF sheet material to create the liner for the chute, to go over the steel RSJ beams and bend downwards to the bottom of the rafters, where the air is then transported down using more smooth insulation boards and this travels down before sweeping sideways to join into the main air duct that will be built to run around the whole house.
These MDF pieces were all glued in using our glue grade expanding PU spray foam, putting in lots of clamps to hold them in place while the glue sets.

Skylight-duct-M-1

Skylight-duct-M-2

Skylight-duct-M-3

The size of the first chute near the Great Room is approximately 500mm wide by 100mm high, with a slight squeezing as it travels over the RSJ but having a 50,000 square millimetres capacity is about half the total capacity of our main air ducting that the fan is designed to work with. It is that size because the skylight and the Great Room will be collecting a great deal of sunshine energy during those sunny days and we need to make sure we have the capacity to remove this hot air easily without struggling. It is so much cheaper to design in a high capacity air ventilation system in the first place, combined with our super-insulated roof and walls, would mean that we don’t need to burn large amount of electricity to run refrigerated air conditioning units to cool the house down. Invest the money in the insulation at the beginning, a fixed cost and avoid the running costs later on especially if the world is facing large temperature rises.
Anyway, we did the second chute as well, with a similar design using MDF pieces but only 300mm wide by 100mm high, before spreading out to the full width of the rafter like before. We also put up more layers of foam boards up and down the rafters themselves.

Skylight-Duct-I-1

Skylight-Duct-I-2

Another job we did was to drilled a conduit hole through the kerb at our ‘chimney’, to allow a 40mm conduit to connect to the bottom of the metal arm and vertical pole. The vertical pole has a 40mm conduit going up the inside and poking out the top, ready for the electrical connections to all the devices that will be mounted into and on the chimney when that is built later on.

Chimney-conduit-passing-through-kerb

That is about it for this week, we will finish off those two special ducts, plus one more that is needed for the upstairs toilet and shower room, which also has to come over the steel RSJ but we only need a simple 100mm round hole to let the flexible air ducting through. The other job to finish off is dealing with the last huge pile of PU foam boards which we will slice up and insert in places up in the roof rafters, just to get rid of them.

20 November 2021
Lighting Installed Upstairs and Flood Lights over Great Room

Today, we took an opportunity to install a new strip of LEDs up on the under side of the steel RSJ part of the Skylight. We wanted to rearrange some of the 100W floodlamps that were previously positioned to shine down lighting up the ground floor but that was before we had built the First Floor structure. So we bought a 45m length mains rated LEDs strip, we actually ended up with only 28metres (we got the difference refunded!) and we started at the North end of the house (over the Bedroom Three and Utility rooms) and split the strip into two lengths of 14metres to go down both sides of the Skylight. We used the 12mm thick plywood that we got installed up inside our Skylight and drilled a series of little holes for cable ties to clamp the LEDs strip up on the edge. We just managed to reach the fat steel legs (number 1 and 7).

New-upstairs-lights-1

New-upstairs-lights-2

Then unconnected four 100W LED floodlamps from various places and got them installed over the Great Room to shine down over our work and saw benches. We used the Ground Floor lighting circuit to connect these lamps so we now have a very well lit work area in our Great Room and a pretty good illuminations upstairs too.

New-great-room-floodlights

Great-room-lit-by-new-lights

We may have to put in a couple more lamps in the last rooms downstairs like the Kitchen, Bedroom One and the Entertainment Room so we can continue to work in the dark evenings now.

18 November 2021
Installing Insulation Into Roof

We had a week of slicing and pushing loads of PU insulation foam boards up into the rafters! We carried on with the task we started last week where we wanted to get rid of all the random collection of 2nd grade of expanded polyurethane foam boards we acquired very cheaply, slice it up and put at least one layer in every single rafter we could access from the First Floor. We wanted to take the opportunity of the cooler weather to get this done and also have some measure of success when we needed to heat up the whole house when we will be working through the winter months. We were half way through covering up the gable section above the Front door last week so we got the second layer of 25mm thick boards and got that finished, bringing the total thickness to 50mm. This is only the start and eventually, we want to put in at least 300mm of some form of insulation, finishing off with glass wool for the added fire protection that will afford us.
We then proceeded to start slicing up the next bunch of boards into a collection of 550mm wide pieces and sorted into similar thicknesses. They ranged from a thinly 50mm to a very fat 150mm whoppers, with most of them being in the range of 60mm to 80mm.

Pile-of-sliced-insulation

We started in the roof area near our slicing machine, the “H” section that goes along the north side of the house, that is over Bedroom Three and the Utility Room. Some of the gaps between the rafters were tight and some were loose for the foam pieces, not by much but sometimes it was very difficult to jam in the board so we had to cut a slight angle off the long edge so it reduces the friction a little, enough for us to thump the board into place. We started at the bottom of the rafters but made sure we had a cleared gap of about 200mm, ready to be filled up with more glass wool for that extra fire protection, especially since all the roof rafters all have projecting Eves and we didn’t want any flames the chance of an easy route up our roof.
The top of the rafters terminates either at the Skylight and the steel RSJ or stops with an angle on a diagonal hip or valley beam. The Skylight needed to have a vertical layer of foam board inserted above the RSJs to make it easier when we come along with the layers and layers of foam boards in the rafters so we did that little job all the way around the whole Skylight in one go first. We cut lots of 60mm thick boards into 550mm wide and then carefully sliced at 200mm an angled cut using our jigsaw positioned at the 32degree angle to cut a sloping top.

Pieces-for-skylight-kerb

Anyway, we carried on inserting pieces of foam in along the H section, getting right down into the corner with the I roof and then went back to carry on the other direction to cover up along over the Utility Room and the Side door porch extension. We turned the corner and then went along the E section, around the next corner to do the C section which includes the the main ridge beam going out over the Front door and its extension.

Insulation-in-H

Insulation-in-G

Insulation-in-D

Next was the other side, the B section that goes over the staircase and turn onto the A section that goes over the Kitchen and towards the Great room. The stairs was a bit tricky because of a somewhat large hole in the First Floor but we handled that problem by laying out a dozen pieces of CLS timber and laid four partial sheets of plywood and OSB material so we could stand on it and climb our ladders. There was only two rafters to complete here so it didn’t take too long.
We finished the week doing the A section, right up to the edge of the First Floor and the Gallery but couldn’t go any further. The Great Room will have to be tackled at another time because we will have to build and assemble some form of work platform all around the room so we could work up in the rafters and also put on the finishing plasterboard sheet materials to form the ceiling.
So having completed this A section as far as we could, we could see that we have completed over half of the rafters and we used just over half the stacks of foam boards we got piled up on the Gallery so we should have enough to finish the job if we are lucky.

Insulation-in-A

Insulation-Piles-at-end-of-week

We will carry on doing that next week and should get it finished by the end of the week. Then we can return to building the next room, installing the utility pipes and conduits etc.

13 November 2021