Category: Research & Testing

  • Wood Construction Glue Tests

    We did another test, this time using a sample of the non-creep crossed linked construction grade wood glue.

    Strong woodglue

    This time, we took pieces of CLS timber, one was left as is (looking it age of about 5 years) and the other piece was planed to remove that “dirty” layer.

    Glue-Test-2-Blocks-glued-together

    Glue-Test-2-Blocks-glued-together

    After drying and curing overnight with the clamps on, we then tried to pull them apart. It was rather hard to do!!

    We ended up putting it in the vice and using the strength of the lever principal, managed to snap the joint apart. It was quite hard to do, bearing in mind that the joint was at the end of the timber grain, which is the weakest point.

    The “Dirty” old piece:

    Glue-Test-2-Old-Timber

    Glue-Test-2-Old-Timber

    It was very noticeable to how the wood grain splits across the rings in the timber, pulling a large chunk still stuck to the other piece. Notice how wide the rings were, not so many of them.

    The “Clean” planed piece:

    Glue-Test-2-Fresh-planed-

    Glue-Test-2-Fresh-planed-

    This one was definitely harder to break, and only splitting a thinner layer of wood. Then we noticed the closeness the timber grain lines were and it is much more heavily pack together. This was a much stronger piece of timber!

     

    Conclusions:

    The glue was very strong and there was no signs of the glue itself failing. It was also very nice to see the glue working just as well on older grey wood as well as fresh timber.

    Another quick piece of testing done!!

  • Results of MS Polymer Glue

    This morning, we went back to our test pieces after having 24 hours to set and cure.

    The first one under the spotlight is the dry wood:

    The rubber piece peeled off cleanly leaving behind the solid glue on the wood. It was quite hard to pull it off. The glue was well stuck on the wood.

    Glue-Test-Rubber-on-Dry

    Glue-Test-Rubber-on-Dry

    the cement board didn’t budge and just snaped at the joint.

    Glue-Test-Cement-Board-on-Dry-Snapped

    Glue-Test-Cement-Board-on-Dry-Snapped

    Tried to use mini crowbar to force the piece off but kept breaking.

    Glue-Test-Cement-Board-on-Dry-strongly-attached

    Glue-Test-Cement-Board-on-Dry-strongly-attached

    The Steel was very well held and it took quite an effort to drive the crowbar in at an edge.

    Glue-Test-Steel-on-Dry-

    Glue-Test-Steel-on-Dry-

    It finally came off but only by splitting a layer wood fibre completely off the timber. The glue was well and truly stuck on the metal.

     

    Now for the second test piece, the wet one:

     

    The rubber piece came off fairly easily and the glue was still stuck to the rubber and not the wood itself.

    Glue-Test-Rubber-on-Wet

    Glue-Test-Rubber-on-Wet

    The cement board came off also fairly easily with the crowbar and only had some splitting of wood fibres. We didn’t try bending the end up!!

    Glue-Test-Cement-Board-on-Wet

    Glue-Test-Cement-Board-on-Wet

    The steel was easier, just like the other two pieces, and again, only having a little bits of split wood fibre.

    Glue-Test-Steel-on-Wet

    Glue-Test-Steel-on-Wet

     

    Conclusions:

    Withstanding the difficulty of having two identical timber pieces with the same surfaces, it does seems to indicate that gluing onto dry surfaces is much better than wet ones, which of course is always going to be the case.

    But at the end of the day, we were attacking these test pieces with far more force and pressure, including the wet test case and in reality, the strength of the bond should be perfectly fine for our purposes. Also, we have to remember that we won’t be working in totally dripping conditions and most likely will be dry or only slightly damp when we are building our house!!

     

    That was one very interesting little quick test – grin!!

  • Test New All Weather Glue!

     This morning, after tidying up the workshop, we decided to test our new glue to see how good it is in wet conditions. We can easily envisioned situations where we were having wet weather during or after placement of the wall legs or roof rafters but before we got the cement boards on and our timber is damp from the rain, delaying our progress!

    But the building industry has come up with this fabulous alternative to the other common glues like PVA and polyurethane. It is based on Modified Silane (MS) Polymer glue, invented in Japan in the 1980’s! It is very flexible, very strong, sticks to almost anything, Sunshine proof and works in very damp conditions as it uses moisture for its curing process. For further technical info, visit www.adhesiveandglue.com/modified-silane.html

    sika_Multistick

    sika_Multistick

    In our case, we are bonding cement boards to the outer walls and on the roof rafters in one job, then we have planks of timber to be bonded to the steel I beams and finally, the Sky Light frames will have the glazing rubber seals bonded to the wooden support bars.

    So we got two small pieces of CLS timber, one was dunked in water and the other kept dry for comparison. Then, we gathered two sets of the three materials (cement board, painted steel I beam and rubber) we are testing and then squirted a blob of glue and stuck down each test piece, making sure it was spread thinly and pressed firmly together.

    Glue-testing

    Glue-testing

    Another advantage of these glues, especially the modern ones, is that they are very high grab so as soon as you press the joint together, they will hold firmly. We did notice that this is the case but the materials were able to slide about fairly easily so useful for the final alignment.

    Now we wait for the curing process which will be quite quick but it did warn us that it is an outside inwards curing process which means that the most deepest parts of the bond may take a while longer to finish curing, but still only about 2 to 6 hours.